KT in Kalinga: Ullalim ning Fatok (Part 2)

4 12 2012

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Lester Valle

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(This is the ullalim, the story, behind the fatok etched today on my forearm, and Lester’s. I have tried my best to recall everything clearly by memory, as I had no chance to write things down during the blur that was: these were days we were working as audio-visual artisans under the direction of young filmmaker Lauren Sevilla Faustino, shooting a persona-driven documentary on the woman called Fang-od, the last of the Kalinga “mambabatok” elders.)

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From Quezon City, we got to Tabuk after about twelve hours, delayed by road repairs and engine failure.

Near the prominent Puraw nga Nuang (White Carabao) landmark at the city center, a pick-up truck was already waiting for us; courtesy of Ma’am Claribel Camarao, a Tabuk elder and teacher, whom Direk Lauren met during a project with the National Commission for Culture and the Arts.

It is Marco’s first time in Kalinga, and the ascent to Buscalan would be his first real trek up the Cordilleras. He began rolling his 60D as our truck cruised along the spanking new Canao Bridge in the outskirts of Barangay Bulanao. From there, he was to record several interesting snippets of our road trip to Tinglayan, as directed by Lauren, but more because he found everything so new. Read the rest of this entry »





KT in Kalinga: Ullalim ning Fatok (Part 1)

31 10 2012

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Carla Ocampo

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(This is the ullalim, the story, behind the fatok etched today on my forearm, and Lester’s. I have tried my best to recall everything clearly by memory, as I had no chance to write things down during the blur that was: these were days we were working as audio-visual artisans under the direction of young filmmaker Lauren Sevilla Faustino, shooting a persona-driven documentary on the woman called Fang-od, the last of the Kalinga “mambabatok” elders.)

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Traffic on Kamias Road was as usual that evening, August 29th. Usual, meaning heavy and blood-curdlingly hopeless. What could have been five short minutes from Sikatuna BLISS (the current KT headquarters) to the Victory Liner Station in Kamuning, now ticked at an alarming 35 minutes. “Manong, maiiwan na po kami ng bus,” an uncharacteristically worried Lester intoned, with his watch announcing 6:53PM; and the bus leaving at 7PM flat. Read the rest of this entry »





There’s A Place Called Sanchez Mira…

1 12 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Carla Ocampo and Lester Valle

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There’s a place called Sanchez Mira, and its long stretch of rock-less, reef-less gray sand beaches are unbelievably empty, when they’ve got consistently big, barreling waves during Surfing Season! What gives? Well, Sanchez Mira (or Sanchez for short) is 12 hours by bus from Manila. Or, three hours on a van from the Laoag or Tuguegarao Domestic Airports. Not exactly the shortest trip to surfing paradise, BUT…

As we’ve said, nothing will stop a real wanderer to get to the best places of these islands, not even uneasy 12-hour trips on a bus! Tara, take up those boards and head to this ENTIRELY UNADULTERATED coastal town; Team KT will now bring you what else to expect, with and beyond the waves.

Read the rest of this entry »





Daklis: Dance of Sea, Hum of Harvest

10 11 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Wing Larase and Lester Valle

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“Daklis,” said a middle-aged fisherman, as he let a shy smile peer out from his eyes, when KT lensman Lester Valle asked “Anya dayta, Manong?” (“What is that, Sir?” Lester had asked in Iloko)

It was almost 9AM, the sun was already white hot and everybody on the balmy Lakay-Lakay Beach in Claveria, Cagayan had begun wiping his or her brow, picking out fish entangled from this neat network of cross-knotted nylon strings.

Daklis could then denote the two things that comprise this entire activity: ONE, the very, very long net that could span a whole square-mile of coast and waters, with a funnel-shaped “dead-end” at its very center; and TWO, the community chore itself, of hauling in unison this very long net ashore, where tens upon tens of residents from Claveria’s fishing villages would join in and eventually get their share of the catch, enough for the day’s three meals or —- if they are favored by Apo Lakay-Lakay —- enough to be sold by the kilo for added income, however humble the sums may be. Read the rest of this entry »





Claveria in Pictures: Nu Haan Nga Agtudo, Here’s What to Do!

9 11 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Lester Valle

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Summer is still the best time to go to Claveria; on these days the weather is predictably sunny for weeks.

See, the Wet Season brings in quite a lot of rain along the northern Philippine coast. This could be a real bummer, since Claveria (a coastal town) is more of an Outdoorsman’s Playground than a here’s-a-shopping-mall-so-it’s-perfectly-fine-to-be-indoors kind of place —- not to mention the damage to the crops and the meager fish catch in the aftermath of typhoons, which are not too welcome news for the town’s simple folk, whose lives depend largely on the gifts of earth and waters.

For an easy-breezy trip, you’d most probably opt for a pocket of time without rain. Once you nail the perfect schedule, though, Claveria WILL give you the time of your life, and that’s a guarantee.

Nu haan nga agtudo (and that’s “If it ain’t gonna rain” in the Iloko language), here’s what to see, and what to do! Read the rest of this entry »





Claveria, The Northern Escape

14 10 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Wing Larase and Lester Valle

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Nothing will stop a real wanderer. Not even the thought of butt-bruising, sleep-depriving, day-long rides just to get to the best places of these islands.

For the knighted ones, who’ve been to several summits, crossed a dozen seas, and endured century bike tours at least five times over, a twelve-hour bus saga is kindergarten.

But for the rest of the populace who’d want to live the traveler’s life, but have yet to pack in the guts— and experiences— to realize it, this 12-hour land trip is a fair enough baptism of fire. And if you’re at all considering this sort of initiation, you might as well choose a destination that’s entirely worth the butt cramps. The KT Prescription: try Claveria, Cagayan: way up north in the Philippine island of Luzon, and twelve hours away— by bus— from Manila.

Read the rest of this entry »





IPAKITA MO! The Making of a Multi-Kultura Music Video

18 07 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Jaymar Carlos, Ruben Hamahiga Dela Cruz and Lester Valle

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I first heard the song “Ipakita Mo” during the 62nd birthday celebration of Banyuhay’s frontman, Heber Bartolome, the Philippinesilong-pango pride originator.

The composer, Jhake Nebreja

It made my hair stand on end; Ka Heber and the best of his songwriting workshoppers were singing in tongues… tongues of Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. At least thirteen Philippine languages were written into the rousing anthem, sung with feverish zeal by all voices involved.

Soon after, I learned that this massively nationalistic song was composed by seasoned folk rocker Jesus “Jhake” Nebreja of the progressive folk band NUKLUS (Jhake’s trio with Joven Aguilar and Babez Alejo).

Read the rest of this entry »





The 1st International Conference on Rizal (a.k.a. So You Think You Know Jose?)

14 06 2011

Aaaaand… the Rizal@150 fever rages on, highly-Googlable as expected. But before we even jump into planning our next big step in the name of “paying homage” to Jose Protacio Rizal— for whose life the Great Academe-and-Class Divide in the Philippines was dug to bottomless proportions (since he became THE National Hero, something he can’t refuse by virtue of being, well, dead)— couldn’t we ask ourselves a question first?

More than a century after the man was methodically gunned down, the riddle lingers on in spite of the law requiring every Filipino to be schooled about his biography and works…

SINO KA BA, JOSE RIZAL? Read the rest of this entry »





Cuenca’s Maculot, The KT Chronicles (Part 2 – A Photo Essay)

26 05 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Elton Chua, Carla Ocampo and  Lester Valle

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(Congruent to The Kayumanggi Trails’ alternative education thrust, members Elton Chua, Lester Valle, and Carla Ocampo brought along greenhorns Emil Hembra and Eldwin Cabus to a newbie trek up Mt. Maculot in Cuenca, Batangas. Photographer and outdoorsman Rap Rios— a perennial KT partner— went with them, as guest sensei. This is Team KT’s photo essay of the December 2010 climb)

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After having Lomi Batangas for lunch, we hired two tricycles to take us to the trailhead. In no time, we were on Mt. Maculot’s footpath, with Eldwin and Emil pacing the climb. These guys are newbies, but they sure are quick and nimble! Lester estimated the hike to last for three hours. Lo, we completed it at an hour and a half. Read the rest of this entry »





Foodie Weekend! Manila’s IFEX and Lukban’s Pahiyas

25 05 2011

text | Carla Ocampo

photography | Lester Valle

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This 2011, mid-May in the Philippines was munch-mania.

Thousands of the country’s foodies (and, photography hobbyists out on a food trip) trooped to two much-awaited displays of bounty: Manila’s annual International Food Exhibition or IFEX, AND the centuries-old fiesta celebrated religiously in the town of Lukban, Quezon— Pahiyas— happening back-to-back and snatching sweet success in spite of the summer rampage of tropical storm Aere (“Bebeng” within our area of responsibility) that clawed at the hem of the two independent events’ set dates. Read the rest of this entry »








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