text | Carla Ocampo
photography | Yo Muan, Carla Ocampo and Lester Valle
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LOCATION | TRAILHEAD: Mt. Arayat National Park | Bgy. San Juan Baño, Arayat, Pampanga
ELEVATION | DIFFICULTY: 1,030 meters above sea level (MASL) | Class 2
COORDINATES: 15°11’47.94″N 120°44’37.68″E
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The Filipino hiker is quite unique. Beyond following the established Leave-No-Trace principles, we also add another facet to respecting the Great Outdoors.
With animistic spirituality, deeply ingrained in the Filipino psyche, we make it a point to pay our respects to deities — spirits — that may be inhabiting the trails we tread on.
Some offer silent prayers before the start of every trek. Some call out “Tabi po!” excusing themselves for disturbing the ground. Even the most hardened atheists — and Catholics! — among local hiking circles do not question these practices, if only in the name of camaraderie.
These spirits, it would seem, appreciate sincerity. For one, Aring Sinukwan (or, The King, Sinukwan) was such a benevolent deity during Team KT’s trek up his lushly vegetated home, Mount Arayat.
Perhaps, as a token for our hushed behavior, the spirit king and his daughter Mariang Sinukwan gifted us with great weather, a spectacular sunset, and a clear view of the farthest plains of Central Luzon.
But we’ll tell you the story later. For now, here are the particulars.
HOW TO GET THERE (COMMUTE)
Any bus going to Cabiao, Nueva Ecija would pass by the junction going to the Arayat National Park, but to be sure, there are buses around the Monumento Rotonda with direct trips to Arayat. Fare is at around PhP115.
An hour or so later, Manong Konduktor hollers, “BANYO!” and he’s not talking about bathroom breaks here. “Banyo” signals the village of San Juan Baño, a pretty busy village at the foot of Mount Arayat. This is your jump-off point, and when you’re backpacked, the bus would assume that you are hikers. ”Banyo!” would then become “BANYO! BUNDOK! BANYO! BUNDOK!”.
(For our foreign readers, “bundok” means mountain, and “banyo” or baño — ”bathroom” for Filipinos — loosely means “bather” or “baptist” in Spanish. Arayat is historically a Spanish colonial bailiwick)
THE ARAYAT NATIONAL PARK
You alight right in front of the jump-off junction, where tricycles are ready to take you to either the Barangay Hall, or the DENR Forest Ranger Station at the mountain’s trailhead. Either here or there, you register your names and get the services of a local guide.
But some hiking groups refuse to do this. There has been much ado about guide rates of late, because sadly, some locals would overcharge from the normal PhP500… to PhP1,000, even PhP1,200.
Even then, there may be no need for war paint and seething anger. As visitors, we can always politely decline and look for other locals. A LOT others are principled enough to guide you along the trails for PhP500. And truth be told, the services of an Arayat guide is priceless, because a team can easily get lost among the many twists and turns at the foot of the mountain. It could be enough to say that Maria and her father Sinukwan would not readily welcome you up their home — at least, not so fast.
THE HIKE
If you choose to be dropped off at the DENR Forest Ranger Station, then your trusty tricycle has just negotiated some kilometer-and-half worth of hike for you. That IS a huge energy saver.
From the Ranger Station, it would be around 6-7 hours before you reach the summit, factoring in the recommended hour-long rest stop at the Viewpoint, about 200 meters below the peak. For newbies, the trek could stretch up to 9 hours.
Following the trail to Magalang would lead you to the first — and probably the only — water source where you can refill your Nalgenes. But it could actually be too early into the hike; this water source is still within the flatlands surrounding Arayat, you may not even have emptied your containers halfway, just yet. But be warned that there are no other water sources along the trail all the way to the summit, so you may want to take your chances right here.
Arayat’s surrounding flatland is a maze of wagon roads and cattle trails; one wrong turn and you’re bound to lose one whole hour just trying to find your way back in the right direction. Sinukwan plays tricks in these parts; humility is recommended: that is, listen to your guide, or if you choose to go without one, at least do not hesitate to ask wandering locals for directions. The Arayat landscape has changed immensely in the past few years, it is almost unrecognizable even to hikers who have been there just five years ago.
Arayat’s trail is one of the freshest we’ve seen, probably owing to the fact that this mountain is seldom included in the immediate must-hike list of hobbyists.
During the first hours of the hike, you will be wading through high cogon, encountering charcoal pits and the occasional carabao along the way. This should all be in the morning, before the sun beats down hellishly; only a few stunted bushes and some scattered tamarind trees are here to shade you from intense rays.
Halfway up the slope, even as the forest thickens, Sinukwan burdens you with his most difficult challenge: radically steep elevation gain. Think: Maculot Tourist Trail, length times five. This goes on until the Viewpoint vicinity.
At the Viewpoint, which offers a narrow but inspiring view of the Pampanga River and its embracing plains, your team may hie off to lie on the beds of igneous rock that are surprisingly ergonomic. Eat your late lunch or take a power nap, your call.
THE VANDALS
But this mountain was not spared the insensitivity of hard-headed vandals who dare call themselves mountaineers. Utter disrespect of the Leave No Trace Principles? Again, we’re letting the pictures talk.
FINAL ASSAULT, AND THE ARAYAT SUMMIT
Here is one nice breather: the Viewpoint signals the last leg of the hike. Past the slightly technical rockface of this station, the assault to the summit is a friendly one. The steepness that characterized Arayat’s first 3/4 would give way to rolling terrain and relatively relaxed ambling, with short sections of sharp inclines every now and then. This is where you could find civet droppings from rock to rock, and hear many different bird calls, evidence of the fascinating, biodiverse population that has made Arayat its home.
The forest becomes quite thick in places; you would, at times, have to sweep aside vines and hanging branches that block your way. Thorny twigs would rip your jerseys. Fallen tree trunks would require some limbo rock. All in all, it is a very textured trek, with enough interesting elements to distract you from your exhaustion. Before you know it, you have actually reached the summit!
Arayat’s South Peak camp is a clearing surrounded by shady trees that protect you from the searing sun. You could very well afford to pitch your tents even at 2PM, or wake up quite late the next day for break-camp at noon.
SINUKWAN’S GIFTS: TEASER
One struggles for words to describe the gifts of grateful Maria and Aring Sinukwan, but to receive these requires no secret formula: behave like a true, courteous mountaineer (read, no boisterous shouting, no garbage flailing) and he will probably bless you with an enchanting — we could even say, bewitching — experience. Team KT’s next post will let you take a peek at this splendor.
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© 2012 The Kayumanggi Trails | All Rights Reserved
Another thing worth mentioning is the sheer number of moquitoes along the trail and on the campsite. We were carrying katols (mosquito repellant incense) all throughout our traverse.
Hi indieescape!
Oh wow, yeah, I forgot to write about that! Well, truth to tell there weren’t too many mosquitoes during our trek. But KT boys do tell stories about mosquito invasions when they climbed Arayat many years ago.
Thanks for the heads up =) Mabuhay!
Hi indieescape!
Naalala ko iyong una kong akyat sa Arayat circa 2005 at marami ngang lamok lalo na sa may talahiban (iyong tipong hindi kayo makapagpahinga nang matagal sa isang rest stop dahil sa sobrang dami. Mapipilitang mag-push sa papasok ng forest area.). Sa kabutihang palad, walang masyadong lamok nitong nakaraan. Palagay ko directly proportional iyong dami ng talahib sa dami ng lamok. Nagkataon na nitong 2012 na akyat, wala masyadong talahib – pinagtatabas kasi ng mga lokal doon.
Mainam nga na magbaon lagi ng mosquito repellant substance.
Maraming salamat sa heads-up
Kitakits sa trails!
[...] Mt. Arayat? Click here. [...]
6 to 7 hours to reach the summit,why this people on the picture carries overheaded back packs?did they stay there for a couple of days?im planning to explore your park soon pls send me itenerary in complete details,,thanks…
Hi, Leo!
As far as I can remember, only 3 out of 8 members of our Arayat Team carried longpacks. These packs carried the bulk of the team’s provisions for an OVERNIGHT STAY, especially supplies for three meals, cookset, fuel, tents, sleeping bags, and others.
Carrying a smaller backpack is doable, but be sure you don’t compromise/scrimp on the necessary things =)
Please PM us your request for itinerary at thekayumanggitrails@gmail.com, and we will try to send you the detailed rundown as soon as we can. Hike responsibly!
ang saya naman neto mga kapatid! so how much exercise do i need to do to be able to do this type of hike? mukang di sha madali. hahahaha
Hi Sunshine!
A week of honest-to-goodness jogging will help. Just be sure to climb Arayat with people who don’t mind hiking softly, gently (whew, Phantom of the Opera song suddenly kicking in o_O). Kaya naman s’ya kung hindi ka magmamadali
Incidentally, Team KT will be hiking Arayat on November 3-4, 2012. Would you like to join us? Mabagal lang kami =D Reg at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?pli=1&formkey=dHdkcW00VTNpZjBYNi1nWGlfZ1pHVVE6MQ#gid=0
Sana makasama ka
yeah, i heard about your hike. one of your team told me about it. i checked your teaser. super saya nya. kaya nga lang i just jogged once a week this past few weeks. baka naman abutin tayo ng SEcond coming ni Lord pag hinintay nyo ko. hahaha. pero very tempting sha. super.
how much would you think it will cost to go with you. i’ll be coming from Pampanga na. San Fernando.
If you’re coming from SF, probably magkikita tayo sa San Juan Ban~o na. We’re waiting for the slots to be filled para ma-finalize na ang hike fee. But definitely it won’t be over 1k.
Would this be your first hike? =) You can send a private message at https://www.facebook.com/thekayumanggitrails para makasagot kami nang mas maagan re: pre-climb reminders
my bf and I will do hiking tomorrow nov.10 but our jump off would be in magalang, we are first timers in hiking and i’m so excited to do this as well as my bf. i heard that there are a lot of garbages aournd that area, is this true?? i wish those campers and hikers should be responsible enough on their trash to keep the cleanliness of the mountain and to have more tourist.. well anyways, thanks for sharing your experience in mt. arayat, i wish to climb with your team next time
Hello Joan!
We were there last Nov3-4! Sayang hindi tayo nagpang-abot
Sadly, yeah, some irresponsible hikers never learn lessons on ecology. Team KT had to clean up the trails and the summit camp; we collected almost a sackful of cans, PET bottles and snack wrappers :’(
We’re counting on you, as well, Joan. We know you also believe in The Kayumanggi Trails’ advocacy. Ang kayumangging daan ay malinis na daan, ergo, every climb is a clean-up climb
Let’s do this! 
cool. more climb sir!
Hi ken, thanks for visiting our blog
Hello…. thinking of climbing Arayat on the 25th of Jan 2013… and i will be staying at Tune Hotel…. really appreciate if you can give me some advises…
rdlee
Hey there, rdlee!
Sorry we missed your inquiry by a couple of days! We’ve been quite busy lately. Anyway, we hope you had a great hike. Feel free to share stories about your climb, right here
Thanks for visiting our blog!
Great! thanks for sharing Sir. Anyway, our team will do hiking on feb 16-17 via Magalang-Juan Baño trail. Excited na ako
Hello, Mark Alvin!
Rakenrol
Ingat at huwag kalimutan ang ating panata, “Every climb is a clean-up climb,” ‘ika nga.
Thanks for visiting our blog!
Very nice blog! Me and my friends are planning to hike this March 29, 2013. We are first time hikers actually. Hehehe. Sawa na kc sa swimming every summer, and we fing hiking something new to us. Can you give us some tips on hiking specially we are first timers?
By the way, i like your advocacy! Don’t worry we’ll do it your way: “Every climb is a clean-up climb,”
Thanks in advance! May Godbless your Team!
Hi, Jeff!
If this is your very first time to hike, you need some important pointers
1.) Your group should ideally go with AT LEAST one friend, or someone you trust, who’s been hiking for quite some time. S/he will be your pacer. Local guides are quite used to the trails, and sometimes they could hike a little too fast. Baka hindi ninyo kayanin physically na humabol sa kanya. So better get a pacer friend
Mas maganda kung naka-akyat na sa Arayat ang inyong pacer.
2.) Bring at least 3 liters of water. Hasel s’ya dahil mabigat ang tubig, pero ipagpapasalamat ninyo ito kapag umabot na sa puntong niluluto na kayo ng init ng araw.
3.) Make it a point to drop by at the San Juan Bano Barangay Hall. The guides would be coming from here. Minsan kasi, walang tao sa DENR office; marahil ay nagro-ronda, dahil National Park ang Arayat. Sa barangay hall, di nawawalan ng tao.
4.) There is no need to pressure yourself, or any member of your team, to hike fast. Mas magandang magsimula kayo nang maagang-maaga, para kahit mabagal kayo mag-hike, hindi kayo masyadong gagabihin sa trail.
You have almost 2 weeks to prepare
Exercise, jog. Di rin biro ang hiking. At kunsakaling hindi kayo makakita ng pacer, susubukin ng Team KT na makatulong sa aspetong ito. E-mail n’yo lang kami sa thekayumanggitrails@gmail.com as soon as you can 
Good luck, at salamat in advance sa pag-aalaga sa Bundok Arayat!
Hi Team KT,
Thanks a lot! =D
Actually wla kming kakilala na nag-hike na sa Arayat. So, we will solely rely on the local guide.
For first time hikers (specially for Arayat), is 7am start sufficient to finish the trail bago lumubog ang araw?
Oy, Jeff!
Sakto na ang 7am start. Aktwali ‘yan talaga ang magiging ETA ninyo sa San Juan Bano kung magbu-bus kayo mula sa Monumento.
Tapos, since wala kayong maisasamang kaibigan na nakapag-Arayat na, subukin ninyong i-negotiate ang guide rate: karaniwang rate ang PhP500. Pero minsan, sa ganyang rate eh hanggang Sampalok lang sila sasama. Sakaling magka-tawaran, sagad na ang PhP1,000 hanggang summit. Hindi na dapat lumagpas sa ganuong presyo.
Pero, wala namang hindi nadadaan sa mahinahong pag-uusap
Basta’t nasa loob kayo ng Barangay Hall, hindi kayo maloloko. May mga pakalat-kalat lang talaga sa area, na medyo hindi mapagkakatiwalaan. Ingat na la’ang.
Kung may tanong pa, sangguni lang. May isang linggo pa kayo
Ui Team KT =D
Salamat Bro!
Sana next time makasama kmi sa mga Pro Hikers like ur Team. Hehehe.
Thanks Again!
hello guys…
sana maka join ako sa inyo minsan sa pag akyat nyo ng bundok para madami pa pa ako matutunan at makilala tulad nyo din mahilig sa adventure at sa nature…
nice blog nakakatulong ng malaki , goodluck sa team.
Hello, Manong Unyol!
Salamat sa pagdalaw sa aming blog
Madalas kaming mag-post ng mga lakad sa FB page ng The Kayumanggi Trails; abang-abang lang ng swak sa iskedyul mo.
Mabuhay!
Hi Team KT,
Pwede bang mag-camp sa Arayat?
May camp site ba?
Balak sana namin magpalipas ng gabi.
Possible kaya?
Thanks.
madali lang itong arayat, parang hindi naman mga mountaineer/hiker mga nag ko comment or reader dito.. less than 500 pesos lang puede na.. wala naman ligaw pag regular arayat lang gagawin mo,sa traverse lang medyo nakakalito..
JM, The Greatest Troll on Philippine Shores,
Hello again, suki. Hindi talaga mountaineers ang ilan sa mga mambabasa ng KT blog. A lot of them are just curious, a lot more are first-time climbers. We see nothing wrong with that, as long as they take time to educate themselves properly re: RESPONSIBLE HIKING.
Kahit ang Team KT ay hindi nagmamalaki sa larangan ng “mountaineering”. Pero proud kaming pinalalaganap namin ang mga aral ng LNT at responsible hiking.
Of course you can climb Arayat with less than P500. But again, that is if you’re going under 2 conditions: 1.) You will scrimp of food provisions and 2.) you would choose not to get the services of a guide or an experienced hiker. For NEWBIE climbers, the 2nd condition is the most idiotic, irresponsible thing to do.
We suppose you are an experienced mountaineer, and you know the Arayat trail very well. Good for you. Now, let us allow others to experience the beauty of Arayat, while being responsible hikers as well. Hindi naman pamurahan ang labanan. Ang laban ay kung gaano ka ka-ayos na mountaineer. Hindi lang kalikasan ang aalagaan. Kailangan ding alagaan ang kapakanan ng kapwa mo.
See you again anywhere here on the KT blog. Abangers lang
anong bus line may byaheng arayat sa cubao?